Saturday, April 27, 2024

Review: Dining at Cecconi's, an Iconic Power Lunch Spot in LA

house of ho restaurant

Fast-forward to 2022, and the eldest granddaughter of Tay Ho’s founder has modernized the brand and brought it to LA. While the house-special banh cuon is rightfully famous, it’s the fish sauce wings that surprise and dazzle. Find southern-style Vietnamese food at this perpetually busy, efficiently run, and solid-as-can-be restaurant. Come for the blistered cha gio stuffed with ground pork and woodear mushrooms, and stay for a bowl of pho, a platter of broken rice, or cool vermicelli noodles.

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Facilities & Services

The $150 tasting menu pays homage to a handful of classics including three cup abalone and steamed fish using locally sourced produce and seafood. West Hollywood is a veritable design mecca, home to a myriad of artists and creatives, more interior design stores than you can throw a measuring stick at, not to mention the Pacific Design Center, a complex packed with shops, studios and one-of-a-kind concept stores. The city is a match made in heaven for Soho House, known for its avant-garde interiors, bold color schemes and on-point material choices. A short drive from Soho House’s original Los Angeles location, Soho House West Hollywood, new Holloway House occupies four floors and a rooftop on Holloway Drive off Santa Monica Boulevard. Like all Soho House properties, it offers a space for creatives to eat, drink, meet, and relax, combined with that special homey feel for which the brand has become famous.

Soho House for non-members

This stinky tofu specialist serves its signature wares hot from the fryer and in a shallow pool of sweetish soy sauce. Also tasty is the “mushroom sliced pork rice,” a sweet and savory braise punched up with pickled mustard greens and a hard boiled egg. Find Thien Huong Restaurant tucked into the ground floor of Far East Plaza in Chinatown. The extensive menu runs the gamut, but regulars can’t resist the pho ga (chicken noodle soup) and the bun bo Hue (Hue-style beef and lemongrass noodle soup). The key to excellent Vietnamese vegetarian fare is a killer mock nuoc cham (fish sauce vinaigrette), and nobody makes it better than the folks at Thien Tam. Dig into platters of broken rice prettied with seasoned wheat gluten molded into various forms, as well as classic noodle soups that manage to satisfy without any animal proteins.

house of ho restaurant

Pho Filet

Food plays a similar co-starring role when the Ho family, who are clearly gourmands, dines at home. Chinatown’s beloved Viet Hoa Supermarket gets a cameo in the series when Hue stops by to stock up on fresh catfish, live crabs, and mango. Those ingredients are, a few scenes later, transformed into a Sunday meal of whole-roasted catfish with a side of passive-aggressive spousal conflict. The "Chef's Table" star uses primarily California-sourced ingredients on her menus, and flavors are as refreshing, clean, and subtle as the environment you're sitting in. With a hefty price tag and months-long waitlist, this likely won't be an every visit kind of meal.

Cindy's Kitchen

Specialties include the glazed Beijing chicken, ma mignon, green prawns, lychee martinis, and water dumplings. Even in a city with a multitude of quality vegan and vegetarian restaurants to choose from, Chef Tal Ronnen's meat-free masterpiece is in a league of its own. Crossroads Kitchen opened in 2013 as the first plant-based eatery in L.A. The low-lit elegant dining room is a fitting backdrop for the refined vegan dishes it serves—think scallops made out of mushrooms, pumpkin seed tofu marsala, lemon mille-feuille, artichoke oysters with kelp caviar, or chilled leek and parsnip soup. Everything is so creamy, flavorful, hearty, and rich that you'll swear they have a secret stash of dairy in the cold storage.

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A great plate can immediately transport me back to childhood summer days spent in tavernas overlooking the Aegean Sea, our table covered in a seafood feast. One of the highlights of our lunch was the extremely kind waiter, who highly recommended we get a pizza — which ended up being the best dish of the day. We were seated next to the wraparound bar in front of one of the doors that opened up to the patio. There was ample seating throughout the airy space, including a nearly empty tented dining area in front of the entrance. We now live in a hybrid world, but the "power lunch" is due for a comeback.

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"I was just kind of trying to imagine another fun funny way to think of myself and I think salty would be a really good one, so that's how it was born, and then it just kind of stayed and when I opened I was like I think I'll just keep it and make it longer and weirder." Non-members can add the privileges at checkout through our 30 day free trial, cancellable at anytime. Health experts consider dining out to be a high-risk activity for the unvaccinated; the latest data about the delta variant indicates that it may pose a low-to-moderate risk for the vaccinated, especially in areas with substantial transmission. The latest CDC guidance is here; find a COVID-19 vaccination site here. Later, Washington attends an exclusive poker game at plush drinking den Madison, where he ponies up a $30,000 buy-in while sipping copious cocktails. In the season’s final episode, Judy toasts to her 40th birthday — and scores a surprise wedding proposal — at Spanish restaurant MAD.

Then came the $28 grilled octopus, which is served with lemon, capers, and olives.

Their signature twisted takes are made for the Instagram era—think chili cheese naan, lamb vindaloo spiced with ghost chiles, and chickpea flour-dusted mustard oil-marinated broccolini. Wash everything down with a super-sweet Thums Up Indian cola, mango lassi, or the house-made oat milk chai. Mozza maven Nancy Silverton, a longtime formidable figure of L.A.'s food scene, expanded her dynasty for the first time since 2013 by joining forces with another city icon, the Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel, to open The Barish. Named after Silverton's paternal grandmother's family, this elegant steakhouse lets patrons select their preferred cut of red meat, ranging from a 6-ounce ribeye cap up to a 35-ounce dry-aged porterhouse, and an accompanying sauce.

house of ho restaurant

The Soho House art collection is one of the largest private collections of its kind, with over 6,000 artworks on display in Soho Houses around the world. What sets Holloway House apart from its West Hollywood predecessor is that it also has bedrooms—34 in total—ranging in size from cozy to small, medium, big, and big accessible. Set across the middle three floors, the design of the rooms reflects the local landscape, history, and culture. This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google privacy policy, terms of service and mobile terms. Cecconi's octopus unfortunately didn't live up to those memories, nor did it come close to some fantastic plates I've had on recent trips to Mexico (Ziggy's octopus in Tulum, I will never forget you). The octopus had a soft texture — no easy feat with such a tricky protein.

The Iron Man pho satisfies, while the warm and sweet ginger tofu “pudding” comes through for dessert. House of Ho handles its restaurant scenes entirely differently, with lingering shots of crepes browning on the griddle at Sweet Paris and luxe surf-and-turf presentations at Steak 48. Clearly filmed pre-pandemic, House of Ho also shows off some of Houston’s ritziest restaurants.

Banh xeo, which literally means “sizzling cake,” earned its name from the sound the batter makes when it hits the scorching pan. The result is a thin crepe that’s crisp and delicate throughout with lacy, caramelized edges. Follow it up with the com hen — a bowl of steamed rice, baby clams, sesame seeds, and fresh herbs served with a light clam broth. Owner and chef Kevin Tran makes fresh tofu each day for his savory and sweet vegan fare.

After coming to America in 1982 and helping start Matsuhisa in Beverly Hills, the Brothers Nakao ventured out on their own in 1991 and have been a part of the Valley's Ventura Boulevard sushi mafia ever since. Chef Tetsuya Nakao's standards are sky-high in fish quality, precision knife cuts, presentation, and service level, which likely helped score the sushiya a Michelin star in 2008 and 2009. Some standouts include toro & pickled radish roll, seared Wagyu sushi, halibut sashimi with a yuzu pepper paste, and yellowtail dressed up with black lava salt and spicy citrus soy sauce. They also have a range of entrees that are charcoal-grilled, steamed, sauteed, or fried like a sea urchin tempura. Omakase at the counter comes with a side of the chef's warm personality. The specialty at Monja Taiker is the red grain pork, decadent and deep-fried slices of pork reminiscent of Cantonese char siu.

With more than 20 different types of curry alone, this Thai Town titan focuses on the seafood-heavy and very spicy—even the smoothies might melt your face off—regional cooking found in the Southern end of Thailand. Most people stick to the standards, but the more adventurous among you should dare to sample from the bizarre foods section that includes things such as deep-fried silkworms, whole eels, and pork ears. If the way to your tourist heart is through your stomach, get thee to Los Angeles stat where more than 20,000 restaurants dish up every type of cuisine and culinary trend imaginable.

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